The strip foundation can be called the most popular in the construction of private houses, as it has fully justified itself over many decades of operation. It is quite simple in arrangement, does not require particularly complex devices or special equipment.

Of course, in order for the design to be reliable and durable, you can do strip foundation only partially with your own hands, that is, to perform the main work on digging a trench, installing formwork, installing and tying a reinforcing mesh, waterproofing and warming. But manufacturing and pouring can be easier and more reliable to order from companies that are specialized in this work.

To find out why the strip foundation is so popular in construction, you need to consider all its positive and, of course, the existing negative qualities.

Advantages and disadvantages of strip foundation

A strip foundation is a monolithic strip of concrete mortar on which all the load-bearing walls of a building are erected.

Strip foundation - a reliable basis for the construction of the walls of the building

This type of base is used in the following cases:

• For the construction of private houses and outbuildings from materials with a significant mass, such as stone, concrete, brick, cinder blocks and other materials.
• In cases where the general plan of construction assumes an underground garage, basement or basement.
• For the construction of houses with a heavy ceiling or attic.
• In regions where predominantly heterogeneous soil prevails.

It should be noted that the installation of a strip foundation is suitable for almost all types of soils, with the possible exception of subsidence and peat bogs - this must be taken into account when choosing the type of foundation for building your own house.

To know what can be expected from a strip foundation during operation, it is necessary to have information about the advantages and disadvantages of this design.

Advantages:

• The strip foundation is especially capable of withstanding heavy loads, no less than a monolithic foundation.
• It is distinguished by the comparative simplicity of preparatory measures, which can be completely carried out independently.
• A strip foundation always has a long operational period, of course, with its proper construction and provision of the necessary degrees of structural protection (waterproofing and insulation).
• The advantage can be considered the variety of specific types of strip foundation, from which you can choose the one that is most suitable for technological and financial capabilities.
• The tape base will cost much less than a monolithic one, although it is practically not inferior to it in strength.
• This design allows you to better insulate the floors in the house, creating a multi-layer insulation.

Flaws:

• The strip foundation is not suitable for the device in some soils.
• According to construction technology, the entire thickness of the foundation must be poured in one go, and it is very difficult to prepare such an amount of concrete on your own. In this regard, there is a need to turn to construction manufacturing companies that have special equipment and machinery.
• Work, even in preparation for pouring concrete, is quite laborious and will take a lot of time. It will be difficult to manage without helpers.

As can be seen from the presented qualities of the strip foundation, the positive ones have a significant preponderance over the negative ones.

Types of strip foundations

There are several types of strip foundations, which differ in some criteria, and the first of them is the depth of its occurrence.

• For example, for massive houses built from heavy building materials, a deep foundation is required, which must be arranged to a depth of 250 ÷ 300 mm below the level of soil freezing in the region where the building was built.
• Another type of strip foundation is shallow. It is used for light frame buildings, and its total depth does not exceed 550 ÷ 600 mm.

The diagram shows several main types of tape-type foundations

Strip foundations are divided not only into two types, but also into several types:

• The monolithic type of foundation is the most used for various buildings. It is erected from a solution of concrete and with mandatory reinforcement. This foundation attracts with its simplicity of design and the availability of its construction, along with its inherent durability and strength.
• The prefabricated foundation for the construction of private houses is used less frequently. This type of base is assembled from ready-made concrete blocks, which are made in factories. They are delivered to the construction site and installed in the prepared trench with the help of heavy equipment.

The blocks are installed close to each other, and the gaps between them are filled with concrete mortar and sealed from the outside with waterproofing material.

This type of foundation is not suitable for unstable soils, since rupture and deformation of the entire foundation, and therefore the building standing on it, can occur at the joints.

In addition, for the delivery and installation of blocks in their permanent place (using loading and unloading and lifting equipment) you will have to pay a fairly round sum. However, in fairness I must say that the blocks themselves will cost less than the entire complex of necessary materials for pouring a monolithic foundation belt, and will also save builders from many heavy construction work. For example, you do not have to knock down and install the formwork, lay and tie the reinforcing mesh.

A prefabricated or block foundation is well suited for two- or three-story houses built from concrete slabs or bricks. If there is a financial opportunity and the type of soil is suitable for installing blocks, then this type of foundation will be a good choice for building a large cottage.

Materials for arranging a strip foundation

If, nevertheless, a decision is made to build a building on a monolithic strip foundation, you need to purchase all the necessary materials for its construction.

For this you will need:

• Roofing material or thick polyethylene film - for waterproofing the formwork.
• Board, 15 ÷ 20 mm thick and bar 20 × 30 mm - for the installation of formwork.
• Steel wire - for tying reinforcement and tightening, if necessary, formwork boards.
• Reinforcement with a diameter of 10 ÷ 15 mm - for installing a reinforcing belt.
• Nails or self-tapping screws - for mounting the formwork.
• Sand and gravel - for preliminary backfilling of "pillows".
• If the concrete is still mixed on its own, then it will need cement not lower than M400, sand and medium fraction rubble or gravel. The solution is made from these materials, taken in proportions of 1: 2: 4.

The sequence of work to create a strip foundation

To be sure of the choice of foundation, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory activities.

Foundation calculation

It is imperative to find out the type of soil on the site for building a house and the depth of its freezing in a particular region, as well as the depth of groundwater passage. To find out all these features, you need to contact the design and construction organization, which will conduct a geodetic study, make the necessary calculations and create an accurate foundation project, based on the analysis obtained as a result of the research.

If you take up the drafting of the project yourself, you can not take into account some of the nuances that will subsequently lead to the destruction of the walls of the house. This is especially true for buildings with several floors.

If you plan to build a small building, such as, for example, a country house, a garage, a barn, a chicken coop or a bathhouse, then you can try the foundation, taking into account the recommendations of SNiP II - B .1 - 62. And even easier - use a special table that allows you to special calculations exactly exactly determine the required depth of the strip foundation, depending on the type of house and soil characteristics:

Type of building	Depth of the strip foundation (mm) depending on the type of soil
		Rocky ground, flask	Dense clay, loam that molds in the hand	Packed dry sand, sandy loam	Soft sand, sandy loam, silt	Very soft sand, sandy loam, silt	peat bog
Barn, bathhouse, household the buildings	20	200	300	400	450	650
One-story country house with an attic	30	300	350	600	650	850	Requires a different type of foundation
Two-storey cottage	50	500	600		Requires calculation of specialists	Requires calculation of specialists	Requires a different type of foundation
Two or three story mansion	70	650	850	Requires calculation of specialists	Requires calculation of specialists	Requires calculation of specialists	Requires a different type of foundation
The table shows the average data of the load force on the ground of buildings of various types
In each case, an individual calculation is necessarily welcome.
For reference: 1 kg = 9.81 N; 1 kN = 101.9 kg; 10 kN = 1019 kg
The table is based on data from the British National Building Code 2010.

Plot marking

When the necessary calculations of the foundation have been made, the architectural plan of the building has been drawn up and, accordingly, the location of the load-bearing walls has been determined, marking is carried out at the site chosen for construction.

The most important question- correct marking of the foundation on the ground

• Before marking, the future site must be cleaned of foreign objects and debris, and the upper fertile layer soil thickness of approximately 120 ÷ 150 mm. Organic residues can lead to biological decomposition processes, which is undesirable for basements.
• On the prepared site, a preliminary marking the corners of the future structure by driving in pegs.

Further, the evenness of the arrangement is carefully checked and the distance between them is specified. Pegs are rearranged as needed. A strong cord is pulled over them, with which it will be easier to control the straightness of the corners and determine the correct direction of the foundation strip.

• Sometimes pre-made wooden blocks are used to mark corners. details are rectangles. First, one rectangle is installed at the desired point and fixed.

Further, two cords are tied to it at a distance of the width of the trench under the foundation, they are pulled to the next place, where the second corner is set, and then the stretched cords are tied to it.

Thus, all four corners of the house are marked, and if load-bearing walls are also provided inside the building, then they are also marked.

• After all the corners are set, it is necessary to verify the length of the diagonals, the designated rectangle or square. If they are equal, then all corners are set correctly.
• Further, along the cord, you can sprinkle with dry lime powder - it will visually show the direction, and possibly reveal some errors.
• When the marking of the contour of the foundation and the internal walls of the house is completed, you need to mark the foundation for the porch or terrace in the same way.

If the house is supposed to install a brick stove or fireplace, then it makes sense to immediately take care of the foundation for this structure. However, the tape for the house and the stove under the stove should not be rigidly connected to each other.

After the markup, you can proceed to a fairly large-scale earthmoving work.

trench digging

• Trenches are dug along the marked lines with a depth indicated in the calculations of specialists, and which will depend on the type of building being erected on the foundation.

• Digging a pit should start from the bottom corner of the foundation - this will help keep the same depth of the trench throughout its entire length.
• When digging the soil, you should try to keep the walls of the trench even and vertical. If the soil suddenly begins to crumble, then temporary supports are installed in weak places.
• In the process of work, measurements of the depth and slope of the bottom of the trench being dug are periodically made. If the foundation is installed on a slope, then it is important that the trench has the same depth around the entire perimeter of its device.

Pit bottom preparation

• At the bottom of the finished trench, it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion, which should have a thickness of at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm in a well-packed form. It will help the correct redistribution of the loads created by the mass of the structure on the finished foundation. This technique is especially important if construction is taking place on unstable heaving soils.

• Further, it is recommended to make a pillow of sand roofing felt flooring will protect the sand cushion from erosion and will not allow cement milk to be absorbed from concrete when pouring the mortar into the pit.

In addition, the roofing material will become a waterproofing of the underground part of the foundation. The material is not only covered to the bottom, but also wrapped on the walls of the trench by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.

Formwork installation

It is installed in the prepared trench. It can be knocked down from the boards, which, after the mortar has hardened, will be dismantled, or made non-removable, at the same time insulating the foundation.

• If it is decided to mount the formwork from boards, then shields are knocked down from them and installed vertically on the bottom of the trench. The formwork should rise above the ground to the height to which it is planned to raise the basement of the house, but usually not less than 350 ÷ 400 mm.

- Between themselves, the shields are fastened with crossbars, and from the outside they are supported by trimming bars. Sometimes, so that the plank walls do not diverge when the concrete mortar is poured under pressure, it is necessary to additionally twist them with steel wire.

- If it is planned to make holes in the foundation for conducting communications, then the pipe section is installed as a spacer between the shields, inside the formwork.

- When installing a wooden structure, it is necessary to periodically check its evenness - this is done using the building level, otherwise the foundation may turn out to be crooked and will have to be leveled after it is ready.

• The fixed foundation is a block of, which are installed on top of each other and are held by jagged cutouts present at the edges of the blocks, and their corresponding grooves. Expanded polystyrene in such formwork can have different thicknesses and serves as a good insulation for the structure. Such blocks are produced in different widths, so they can be selected for any foundation.

The blocks do not require spacers or additional fastenings - they themselves are fully designed to securely hold the concrete poured into them.

• Another formwork option that can be called combined. It consists of installed plank panels, and inside the formwork, a heater is pressed against them, about 30 mm thick - it can be polystyrene foam or penoizol.

The material will not only insulate the foundation, but also prevent the cement milk from flowing out through the gaps between the boards, prematurely evaporating moisture from the poured concrete, which means that the process of ripening and curing will take place in the optimal mode.

Reinforcing grid installation

The next step in the formwork is installed. It is made from a metal rod having a diameter of 8 ÷ 15 mm. The rods are cut into segments equal to the length of the walls, and they intersect at their corners. It is not recommended to fasten the rods by welding, since they will lose their mutual mobility from this and, when the structure shrinks, they can destroy the foundation because of this. Therefore, they are twisted with steel wire.

If an insulating material is installed inside the formwork, then it is desirable that the perpendicular sections of the reinforcement enter the insulation - so it will be securely fixed to the edges of the formwork.

An accurate calculation of the reinforcing belt is carried out by foundation designers, taking into account m numerous criteria - the type and total mass of the building, soil stability, seismic features of the region, and other quantities.

Foundation pouring

If this option is not possible for one reason or another (for example, the absence of an appropriate company or completely unacceptable prices), then the concrete is poured in layers. But in this case, you can not do without the mechanization of the process, which means that you will definitely need a concrete mixer.

• When ordering a ready-made material, the concrete solution is kneaded at stationary production units in the required proportion, and delivered in special vehicles equipped with a concrete mixer and feed mechanisms.

- Next, a special chute is installed, through which the solution flows into the prepared formwork. It must be distributed with a shovel along the entire length of the structure until it is filled to the intended top.

- The surface of the concrete is leveled and left to set, mature and gain strength.

- The hardening time of such a structure is about four weeks in the warm season. Some work, such as demoulding and preparation for further operations, but without a significant load on the tape, can be started after 16 ÷ 20 days.

It is not recommended to fill the foundation in winter, but if it is — necessary measure, then both the composition of the concrete solution and the timing of the completion of the poured structure will be completely different. More about this is described in the corresponding article of our portal -.

• In that case, the work will be carried out independently, they are carried out in the following sequence:

- First of all, a solution for pouring is prepared. As mentioned above, it will need cement and sand in proportions of 1: 2 or 1: 2.5, as well as 4 parts of crushed stone. The mixture is poured with water and kneaded.

- If all materials are mixed in, then they are put into it in the same proportions and a solution is prepared, which is then immediately poured into the formwork. Using such a setup, the work will certainly go much faster, and with the support of good helpers, the work can often be done in one day.

- If the solution is to be kneaded manually, then it will be necessary to act in stages. So, the first layer of concrete mortar is poured into the formwork with a thickness of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and well compacted with a wooden bar. The entire formwork along the entire length along the perimeter must be filled with a completely even layer of the same thickness.

The next day, the same procedure is carried out, and so on until the formwork is filled to the top.

- It is recommended to cover the flooded foundation with burlap, and if concrete work is carried out in the summer heat, then it is covered with plastic wrapso that moisture does not evaporate quickly, and the concrete hardens evenly.

The foundation, made in layers, matures faster than the one poured at a time. However, its strength is much lower, and there is a possibility of damage to the structure in winter period during severe frosts, if suddenly there is moisture between the layers. Therefore, it is imperative to apply a waterproofing coating to the foundation, filled in this way, and it is also desirable to insulate.

Prices for popular models of concrete mixers

• To mix the solution, you need to use materials clean from earth and clay - gravel, sand and water.
• The proportions of the solution may vary, but gravel or gravel should always be taken 1.5 ÷ 2 times more than sand.
• The water in the solution should be approximately 50% by weight of the cement (not to be confused with the volume! )
• If you have to use wet sand to prepare concrete, this must be taken into account when adding water to the concrete mixer so as not to make the solution too liquid.
• When mixing and pouring the foundation in cold weather, it is recommended to knead the solution with heated water - this will speed up the setting and hardening of the concrete.
• If the solution is too thick, then after pouring the solution into the foundation, tamping or frequent piercing with a metal rod is necessary. This process is carried out to remove the air remaining in the solution, otherwise so-called shells may form inside the foundation.
• In addition, the formwork with the freshly poured mortar is tapped with a wooden mallet - this process also helps air to escape to the surface of the mortar.
• Formwork removal is carried out no earlier than 5 ÷ 7 days after pouring the mortar, and further large-scale actions can be carried out only after a month.
• Insulation and waterproofing of the foundation will be mandatory, as already mentioned, when it is poured in layers. However, it is better to make it a rule that these technological operations must be carried out in any case. This will dramatically increase the strength and durability of the foundation and, of course, the entire structure. How to conduct and foundation - read the publications of our portal.

It should be noted that the strip foundation is the optimal basis for so many buildings, and it is much easier to carry it out than a monolithic slab. And in conclusion of the article - a video example of the correct arrangement of the strip foundation:

Video: how to fill the strip foundation

Pouring a monolithic foundation requires a large amount of concrete, which is not always possible to prepare at a time. Large construction sites are equipped with special equipment and a concrete mixer large sizes, but in private construction, it is not always possible to rent or order this equipment. In this case, the question arises: is it allowed to fill the foundation in parts. We will find out the answer to it later.

Concrete for the foundation: characteristics and stages of maturation

For the manufacture of concrete, cement and additional fillers such as gravel, sand or expanded clay are used. Water helps to improve the fluidity of the solution, and plasticizers and additives are added to the composition to protect against frost.

After preparing the concrete composition, it is poured into the formwork, followed by maturation:

1. The first stage is the setting of the concrete composition. The substance, getting into the formwork, begins to harden, this happens when cement interacts with water. The bonds between the components are not yet particularly strong, and when loaded on the surface, they are easily destroyed. At the same time, it is unrealistic to achieve re-seizure.

The duration of this stage is determined temperature indicators external environment and air humidity and ranges from four hours to a day. Lowering the temperature increases the setting time of the concrete. At the same time, at the beginning of setting, the consistency of the composition remains liquid. If at this time another solution is added to the composition, then the bonds between them are not broken. At a temperature of 18-19 degrees, the liquid stage is about two hours. At a temperature of 0-1 degrees - more than six hours.

It is possible to increase this indicator by mixing the composition, however, do not abuse this method, as this adversely affects the performance properties of concrete.

2. The second working stage is the hardening of the concrete composition. This process is quite lengthy and involves the gradual hydration of concrete components to give the concrete maximum strength characteristics in relation to the grade of the working mixture. The hardening process on the first day of pouring is accelerated, then the rate of development of this process decreases.

In the first hour after setting, concrete has a minimum strength; adding a new portion of the solution will lead to cracking of the surface. Only 3 days after pouring, the composition gains the desired strength.

Depending on the characteristics of the concrete work cycle, we conclude that the gradual pouring of the foundation under the house with your own hands is possible, subject to certain recommendations:

• sequential mixing of each portion of concrete, the time between pouring of which does not exceed two hours in warm weather and four in cool weather, no seams are formed, the concrete remains as strong as with continuous pouring;
• during long breaks in work, it is allowed to fill in a maximum of 64 hours, no more, after a break, the surface is cleaned of dust and moisture, cleaned with a brush, thus increasing the adhesion between the seams.

When pouring the foundation in parts, do not forget about reinforcement. It is mandatory in any case.

Partial pouring of the foundation - advantages and disadvantages

The process of periodic pouring of the foundation has the following advantages:

1. No need to use heavy special equipment.

Quite often, during construction work, there is no possibility of access to the site with specialized equipment and even a concrete mixer. In this case, the only option is to periodically pour the foundation. Since without specialized concrete mixers to cook a large number solution is unrealistic.

2. Increasing comfort in construction work.

It is not always possible to complete the complete pouring of the foundation; there are reasons when the construction process stops. In this case, the gradual pouring of the foundation - solves this issue.

Despite this, there are such disadvantages of pouring the foundation in parts:

• decrease in the strength of the base;
• with the wrong technology of work - the appearance of cracks on the foundation;
• the need for precise adherence to technology.

Full pouring of the foundation allows you to get a monolithic structure, with maximum strength characteristics. In any case, the quality of the foundation - after partial pouring is at a lower level compared to monolithic structures.

The technology of pouring the foundation in parts - the calculation of setting intervals

Before you start pouring the foundation, read the rules for determining the time and interval for setting the concrete composition. Incorrect pouring will adversely affect the quality of the foundation.

There are only two stages of solidification of concrete:

• grasp;
• hardening.

Each of these processes differs in individual characteristics and completion time. Immediately after pouring the concrete composition into the formwork, setting begins. The individual components are interconnected. It is strictly forbidden to touch the concrete solution at this time, in order to avoid violating its integrity. In warm to hot weather, the concrete mortar sets in as little as three hours. Late autumn or early spring given time increases up to 24 hours.

After setting, the structure of the composition remains liquid, therefore, during this process, it is allowed to pour concrete in small portions. However, filling after a day is already unacceptable.

The next process is freezing. Its duration is about four weeks. After this time, the concrete is completely hardened and the ability to take loads. Three days after the start of hardening, it is allowed to perform additional pouring of concrete on an already finished coating. In the period from 1 to 3 days after the start of hardening, it is strictly not allowed to pour the solution. Since concrete - without gaining additional power, cracks under the load of a new composition, although microcracks are not visible, their consequences will appear after the construction of the house. Through these defects, water will enter the foundation, gradually destroying it.

Please note that the filling time in the summer and winter seasons is significantly different. Yes, at high temperature in summer, the second layer is poured four hours after the main pour, in winter this time increases to eight hours. When pouring, after the mortar has dried, dry, clean and brush the substrate beforehand.

In addition to determining the time of partial pouring, decide on the technology for performing this process. They are distinguished by two:

• block;
• layered.

When pouring a strip foundation and arranging an underground trench, the formwork is poured strictly along the soil. In this case, the filling is performed in compliance with the joints, that is, in layers.

When building a tape monolithic foundation, stop at block pouring. That is, the seams are located in a position perpendicular to the joints. With the layer-by-layer pouring of such a foundation, it is necessarily reinforced.

Before starting the pour, decide on the method and draw up drawings in the form of a three-dimensional foundation diagram. On it, it is indicated total area foundation and it is divided into several parts, in relation to the type of fill. In relation to division, we distinguish three variants of the scheme:

• vertical division - the base of the foundation is divided into separate parts, separated by steel partitions, after complete solidification, the partitions are removed and concrete is poured;
• an oblique pouring option is the most difficult way, in which case the territory is divided diagonally, certain experience is required to complete it, it is used in complex structural foundations;
• horizontal partial pouring - the foundation is divided into parts in depth, no partitions are installed between them, it is enough to determine the height of applying each of the layers, further pouring is carried out in relation to the scheme and the interval for introducing a new portion of concrete.

In addition, on the sketch, indicate the dimensions of the part to be poured, in relation to these indicators, determine the amount of concrete to be poured.

Features of manual pouring of the foundation in parts

After drawing up the drawings, proceed to direct partial pouring. First, build the formwork in the places of primary pouring. For its manufacture using wood, metal or plastic. Wooden formwork should have a laminated finish to prevent excessive moisture absorption by the wood.

When using metal structures, choose materials with an anti-corrosion coating. Plastic formwork is lightweight and easy to use.

In addition, there are two options for formwork, depending on its design:

• national team;
• whole.

• welded;
• anti-corrosion.

There should be two options for this marking on the reinforcement for the foundation. Welded reinforcement is durable and prevents cracking of the foundation. Before pouring concrete structures, fill the bottom of the structure with sand. Tamp it with special equipment. Next, proceed to the preparation of the concrete solution.

The main ingredients for the preparation of the solution are used:

• sand;
• cement;
• water;
• filler.

The foundation is poured with a high-quality 300 or 400 brand compound. With about 85 kg of dry compound, you will need about 42 liters of water. Use only dry sand for work.

It is recommended to pour the foundation in a dry and warm weather. When working in summer time year, cover the concrete with a film to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture. Gradual pouring involves batch preparation of concrete. To calculate the composition for a particular area, first determine its volume. Measure the height, width and depth of the structure, multiply the resulting values ​​\u200b\u200band get the number of cubic meters of concrete composition for work. Prepare concrete in a concrete mixer, this composition is characterized by maximum uniformity and high quality.

The next step is to create a foundation with your own hands. When pouring the foundation in the form of a tape in a horizontal way, divide the structure into several parts. For example, with a foundation height of 1 meter, it is recommended to perform concreting in three or four layers.

After pouring concrete, tamp the composition with a vibrator. This device will remove excess air from the structure and improve its adhesion to the reinforcement. In addition, each of the layers is leveled with a special fixture or an ordinary wooden plank.

After holding a certain time, prepare a new portion of the solution and repeat the process. Be sure to compact each layer with a vibrator. If you do not have this device, replace it with conventional fittings, with which the mortar is pierced along the foundation. Just keep in mind that you need to do this with maximum speed before the solution begins to solidify.

Cover each layer of concrete with plastic sheeting to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture or rain on the surface. If the interval between pouring layers exceeds a day, then before pouring the next layer, clean the surface of dust and dirt.

If the gradual pouring of the foundation is already done on a completely dry base, then pre-treat it with a metal brush to improve roughness and adhesion to concrete.

Pouring a strip foundation is a complex process, however, if you approach it with responsibility and correctly calculate the time of solidification of the solution, then the result of the pour will be no worse than that of monolithic structures.

Pouring the foundation video:

The most tested and proven type of foundation, capable of withstanding significant loads and working on fairly difficult soils.

It is economical, versatile and simple in design.

The tape is well combined with other support structures, forming combined types of base, combining the best qualities of both types.

The technology for manufacturing tape bases is well developed and tested in different conditions and for a long time.

Casting a strip foundation is a term that refers to the process of manufacturing a monolithic reinforced concrete strip by casting directly at the construction site. Liquid concrete is poured into a specially prepared form - the formwork, hence the term "pouring".

At the same time, the construction process itself is much more complicated and consists of a set of successive actions, among which the actual pouring is only one of the stages. It is considered the main one, but without all other operations it is impossible to perform it.

Mounting order

The installation of the strip foundation is divided into the following stages:

• Preparatory work.
• Formwork creation.
• Reinforcing cage knitting.
• Pouring concrete.
• Waterproofing.

The procedure for completing each item may vary depending on the existing conditions, but general order action always stays the same.

Let's take a closer look at the stages of work.

trench preparation

Preparatory work requires the presence of construction equipment. It is possible to do them manually, but it will require a significant investment of time and labor. In the end, it always turns out to be faster and cheaper to pay for the work of a bulldozer and an excavator.

Procedure:

1. Removal of the top layer of soil and unnecessary vegetation, site planning.
2. Marking with wooden pegs. It is recommended to install them outside the perimeter of the future trench, and draw up borders and intersections with cords stretched between stakes. This will save them and clarify the contours of the trench when there is doubt about the correctness of the action.
3. Digging a trench for a certain. The excavated soil is laid on the outer sides or taken out of the site.
4. Sandy backfill. The classic option is the sequential laying of 20 cm of sand, 20 cm of crushed stone and a leveling sand layer of 5 cm. Each of them is carefully rammed. The immobility of the future tape depends on the density of the pillow. The sediment threatens to destroy the building, so the quality of the seal should be taken with all responsibility.
5. Laying on top of a double layer pillow. Roofing material is usually used, which is laid without gaps or gaps.

Upon completion of these steps, you can proceed to the next stage of work.

NOTE!

Sometimes a layer of the so-called is poured over the pillow. footings - about 5 cm of concrete, forming a flat and dense area. It allows you to keep the waterproofing intact, eliminates the punching of the pillow with the bars of the armored belt.

Choice of brand of concrete

The brand of concrete determines the degree of its resistance to external loads.

The frame is a spatial lattice with the location of the working rods at a depth of 2-5 cm under the outer surface of the tape. Assembly is carried out by welding or by knitting bars with soft steel wire.

The assembly of the frame parts is usually carried out next to the trench, after which the belt fragments are installed in the trench, aligned along the axis and other parameters, and connected.

Do-it-yourself filling

The process of pouring concrete is a responsible operation that requires accuracy and understanding of some subtleties. First of all, you need to consider the weight of the material. If poured from a height, then there will be a risk of destroying the formwork or reinforcing cage.

To create an optimal pouring mode, a tray should be made through which the mixture will be directed into the trench. This will create a uniform mode of concrete supply and eliminate sudden changes in load as much as possible.

Self-manufacturing and pouring is an undesirable option, since productivity is very low and the process is slow. This creates a layered structure of the tape, reduces its strength and load-bearing capacity.

It is strongly recommended to use ready-made material and pour it from several points. You should not count on the fact that the mixture will spread along the entire length of the formwork. It is necessary to prepare in advance several points of approach of the mixer to the trench, provide for the possibility of installing a tray and pouring in uniform portions from different points.

This is the only way to create a monolithic casting with the same strength characteristics at every point.

Can it be filled in parts?

Technological requirements in this matter are unanimous - pouring should be done simultaneously. The presence in the tape of sections with different times filling is considered a marriage and is not allowed for operation.

The concept of "simultaneously" in this case is understood as the absence of breaks for more than a day. Often you can find recommendations about filling in layers, about creating "cold joints" and other bad advice.

Indeed, often private developers are forced to pour in parts due to the inaccessibility of equipment, the remoteness of the site from the concrete manufacturer, etc. It must be understood that they act at their own peril and risk, creating a layered structure of the tape, forming vertical joints that weaken the foundation.

The danger of destruction is too great and real, it is better to consider the possibility of delivery and pouring of the finished material.

How to properly level the foundation after pouring

Leveling the surface of the tape is done for two purposes:

• aesthetic. After dismantling the formwork, traces of boards or other elements often remain. Differences up to 10-15 mm on the side surfaces are eliminated by conventional plastering. A reinforcing mesh is attached to the surface and a leveling layer of plaster is applied.
• Practical. This option allows you to fix more serious mistakes with the formation of differences of more than 30 mm. In this case, it is necessary to re-install the formwork in problem areas and fill the leveling layer. The reinforcing mesh is pre-attached, the point of maximum displacement of the surface from the design contour is determined, and the formwork is installed. After pouring, the concrete is cured normally.

Correction of the upper surface is carried out by mounting a partial formwork and pouring a leveling layer. Horizontal control is carried out using a laser level, a level or a conventional construction bubble tool.

After pouring, the surface should be flat and level, ready for the construction of walls.

Curing time of concrete

The hardening period of concrete is quite long.

In practice, exposure is carried out in stages:

• The first three days are watered 6 times a day (every 4 hours).
• Then 7 days watered three times a day.
• After 10 days of exposure, the formwork is dismantled.
• After 28 days, the tape is ready for further work.

Irrigation with water allows you to balance the loads arising from the difference in humidity inside the tape array and outside.

NOTE!

The 28-day curing period does not mean that the concrete hardening process is complete. The material has only gained enough strength to continue construction, but the hardening of concrete takes a long time.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing - the procedure for applying a cut-off layer to the surface of a concrete tape.

There are two kinds:

• Horizontal waterproofing. It is carried out from below and above the tape and allows you to exclude the process of capillary absorption of moisture by the concrete tape from the lower soil layers or cut off the walls from the concrete, preventing the penetration of water. Usually a double layer of roofing material is used with hot bitumen or mastic.
• vertical waterproofing. This is the process of applying insulator to the side walls of the tape. Various materials are used, rolled, liquid or impregnated.

There are opinions about the optional waterproofing. Some experts tend to believe that moisture does not pose a serious danger to concrete. However, in regions with severe frosts wet concrete can be destroyed by expanding water when freezing, so waterproofing should be treated as responsibly as possible.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to fill the strip foundation:

Conclusion

The strength and reliability of the foundation directly depend on the quality of construction, the accuracy and accuracy of fulfilling technological requirements, and meeting all the necessary deadlines and modes. This will create a high-quality base, durable and resistant to all loads.

The process of pouring the foundation is one of the main stages of work, but other actions are no less important and require maximum care. The functions performed by the foundation are responsible and require an appropriate attitude.

In contact with

In private construction, it has received the greatest distribution. It does not require any special tools or additional costs. To carry out the work, you only need to know how to properly fill the strip foundation, and familiarize yourself with the nuances of the work.

Characteristics of the strip foundation

For the construction of a building with a basement or basement, a strip foundation is the best option. It is best to build a foundation of this type on dry, stable ground. It is undesirable to build a house on heaving soil with a strip foundation - this may entail additional costs.

Most of all, a tape-type foundation is suitable for small structures - baths, garages, summer cottages. A house can be built on such a foundation. The depth for the construction of such buildings with their own hands needs a small one, which saves building materials.

It can cost a third of the entire cost of building a building, so this problem should be taken responsibly. Research should first be carried out to determine the type of soil and establish to what depth it can freeze. It is better to clarify all the circumstances initially, since subsequent correction of errors can be expensive.

List of required materials and tools:

• wooden pegs;
• rope;
• formwork;
• sawdust;
• reinforcing mesh;
• brick or stone supports;
• concrete mixture;
• spatula or trowel;
• concrete mixer;
• tamping equipment (vibrators).

You can do it yourself and without any extra tools. Right project foundation and construction should be done by a specialist. A qualified worker will be able to correctly determine the allowable and eliminate possible miscalculations.

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Ground works and foundation marking

Before proceeding with the pouring of the strip foundation, the selected site should be cleared and marked according to the project. The boundaries of the foundation are applied to the ground using any means at hand - pegs, reinforcement or ropes.

In order for the marking to be done evenly, it is necessary to indicate where the axis of the structure will be located. Using a plumb line, you should outline the first corner. Stretching the second one perpendicularly from it, it is necessary to outline the remaining 2 corners. Using a square, you can outline the last, fourth corner. After that, you need to check the evenness of all corners. This can be done by measuring their diagonals. So, if all the angles coincide with each other, it means that pegs can be driven into these places, between which the fishing line is stretched.

Internal marking is performed similarly to the external one. The only caveat is that for its implementation, a distance of 40 centimeters should be retreated from the internal marking line.

After completion, the height differences on the surface of the site should be investigated. Work must begin from the lowest point. It is from this level that the depth of the foundation is determined. Do this so that there is no difference in . To build a small house with your own hands, a foundation about forty centimeters deep will be enough.

To dig a pit, you can use an excavator or a shovel.

All work must be accompanied by a level check using a level, the bottom of the trench must be as flat as possible. It is necessary to make timely control of the level of verticality of trenches.

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Preparation for the bay of the strip foundation

Before pouring, be sure to prepare the site for construction work. At the bottom of the trench, it is necessary to install a special sand cushion. It is designed to reduce the load exerted on the foundation by distributing it over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure.

The thickness of the sand layer must be made at least fifteen centimeters. Sand should be poured in layers, each subsequent layer must be carefully compacted and leveled, previously moistened with water. In the absence of sand, you can use crushed stone. It is able to have a similar effect on the foundation, and the optimal thickness will be a layer of seven to eight centimeters. After the pillow is evenly laid and rammed, it is necessary to lay out a waterproofing layer on top - polyethylene or roofing material. It is able to give the structure additional strength.

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Formwork installation

In order for the strip foundation to take well, it is necessary to install formwork and additional reinforcement. The formwork is done in order to get a casting shape that protrudes above the surface of the trench. Formwork can be used to prevent crumbling of the trench walls by reinforcing them.

You can use your own (homemade or ready-made) or rent it. From the point of view of economy, it would be right to make it with your own hands from any improvised materials available at any construction site - plywood, boards or metal tiles. To fasten the formwork panels, you can use screws or nails. The rule should be followed: the heads of screws or nails should be located inside the formwork. This will help make the walls of the foundation structure as even as possible.

The formwork is installed before pouring in such a way that its upper edge protrudes at least thirty centimeters above the trench surface. Using the cord, you need to mark the level inside the formwork at which the concrete will be poured.

After the formwork is installed, it is necessary to deal with the installation of reinforcement. Properly laid reinforcement will be the key to the stability of the foundation. The rods must be tied into a grid using wire. All working moments, such as the size and frequency of the cells, must be agreed in advance and indicated in the design for the foundation.

Often, to build a house, you need to use a reinforcing mesh, the cell side of which is thirty centimeters. It is undesirable to use a welded mesh. Corrosion phenomena often occur at the bonding points. Empirically, it was found that structures of this type poorly perceive the bending load.

At the bottom of the trench, it must be done in such a way that there are no places of contact with the ground. During work, it should be done so that the entire reinforcement structure is located inside the monolith. Then we can guarantee full protection foundation from rust and additional structural strength.

Reinforcing mesh should be laid on supports of small height made of stones or bricks. The height of such a support should be about five centimeters. A similar distance should be observed between the walls of the trench and the edge of the reinforcing mesh. After the reinforcement is installed, you can start pouring the foundation.

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Filling the strip foundation

A house can be built in many various ways. There are two ways to correctly fill the strip foundation. The first method provides for a one-time pouring of the entire concrete mix before the previous layer sets. The second method consists in laying concrete in several parts when the previous layer dries. In this case, after each layer, a cold joint or concreting joint will be created.

Before making the next layer of concrete, the previous one should be cleaned of the cement film that can form on its surface. Be sure to wait until each of the layers reaches a certain degree of strength. If you do not wait for drying, the house may turn out to be unstable. With your own hands, you can do the filling in both ways.

According to the opinion of experts, it will be right, when building a house, to use a continuous method of laying concrete. But for organizational or technical reasons, a situation may develop when it is not possible to pour the foundation at a time. In this case, working seams are used. Before pouring the next layer of concrete, you need to thoroughly clean the seam with water and wait for it to dry. If the cement film is not cleaned, destruction can begin directly from this place.

When performing, one should adhere to one direction of work - the movements should always be directed in the same direction in each of the layers. If a strip foundation is being poured over a large area, the mixture can be laid by means of inclined layers. During operation, you must observe an angle of thirty degrees.

It follows several steps. So, after each poured 20-centimeter layer, you should wait some time until it hardens. Each of the layers should correspond to the length of the trench. If you fill in pieces, this will reduce the strength of the entire structure. When the correct filling of the layer with your own hands is done, you need to carefully tamp the mixture with the help of special equipment.

Compaction continues to be done until cement milk appears on the surface of the foundation. It is necessary to compact each of the layers from the leading section. Before compacting the layer, the concrete mixture should be evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure. The height of each individual protrusion above the surface should not exceed ten centimeters.

When erecting a house, you cannot use a vibrator to redistribute the mixture that has already been filed into the formwork. Compaction can be performed only after the work on leveling the working area has been completed.

The compaction of the strip foundation must be done in such a way that the casting does not form air cushions. Each layer must be poured, and then carefully tap all the walls of the formwork. This will cause the bubbles in the solution to rise to the surface and will not form cavities that reduce the integrity of the structure.

Depending on the height of the foundation, choose the number of layers of pouring. As soon as the last layer is filled, the surface of the strip foundation must be leveled with your own hands. To do this, you can use a trowel (special tool) or a trowel. To eliminate excess air from the structure, it is necessary to pierce the foundation several times with reinforcement.

After a few hours, when the concrete shrinks, the surface of the foundation will need to be sprinkled with sawdust. It will be right if they lie in a thick layer. Sawdust is needed to prevent the last layer of concrete from drying out. The top layer of concrete must dry evenly, so it needs protection from external influences.

If there are no sawdust, you can use any covering material instead.

Complete drying of the foundation takes up to three weeks. After the structure dries, you can disassemble the formwork and start building a house.

Comments:

Pouring a strip foundation is not an overly difficult task, therefore this species grounds in private construction is the most common. Work will not require impressive cash costs. If you decide that the house should have a basement, then this type of foundation is just right. It is not worth starting its construction if the soil on the site is characterized by seasonal heaving, however, such a foundation will show itself perfectly on dry soil.

The strip foundation is popular in low-rise construction due to its relatively low cost and durability.

Site marking technology and land works

If you are thinking about how to properly fill the strip foundation, then you should first prepare the territory. Given the size of the future building, the external and internal contours of the foundation should be applied on the building site. The most convenient way to do this is with the help of improvised means such as rebar pegs, between which the wire is stretched. In order to correctly mark the width, a distance of 40 cm can be used from the outer edge of the marking, which acts as the most optimal width of the base.

After the marking work is completed, you can proceed to the analysis of elevation changes on the site, which will allow you to identify the lowest point.

The size of the trench for the foundation should be slightly larger than the planned width of the walls of the house.

From this place it will be possible to start counting the depth of the pit, which will eliminate the possibility of obtaining a difference in the height of the future base. If it is intended to be installed on a foundation big house, then the pit must be deepened by 0.4 m.

The tape can be dug out with a shovel or an excavator, the latter option, of course, will be more expensive, but it will also allow you to complete the work in a shorter time. Be sure to check the location of the walls and bottom through the building level.

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Technology of work on the formwork and installation of reinforcement

Before pouring the strip foundation, it is required to make a substrate, which will be made of sand. This will help reduce the mechanical impact on the base between seasons. This approach will distribute the pressure exerted by the building on the foundation area, and construction materials will be saved during construction. Sand should be poured in a layer of 150 mm, then the surface of the pillow should be leveled and horizontal should be checked using a water level, for a more impressive effect of density, the layer will have to be spilled with water. On top of the equipped pillow, it is permissible to pour a layer of rubble, laying waterproofing. An excellent solution for this would be roofing material or polyethylene.

Before pouring the strip foundation with your own hands, formwork boards must be installed in the pit, the walls can be made from improvised sheet materials in the form of plywood, boards, scraps of roofing material, etc. The components of the formwork can be combined with screws, it is convenient to use nails for this, the fastener caps must be located so that the inner walls are even. The installation of the boards should be carried out taking into account that they protrude about 30 cm above the surface. In the inner space for pouring around the perimeter, a cable must be placed, which will determine the upper level of concrete pouring. At the same stage, you have to make sure that the foundation eventually has holes for the output of communication systems, otherwise you will have to face the need to cut them through, which will violate the integrity of the walls.

Now you can start working with the reinforcement. To do this, it is necessary to prepare rods with a cross section of 12 mm, a knitting wire should be used for tying, as a result, the sides of the cells should be equal to 30 cm. It is preferable not to use the welding method for this, since corrosion may appear in the areas of such connections. If you use wire for knitting, then this allows you to ensure the flexibility of the structure at the time of soil movement. During the installation of the reinforcing cage in the cavity of the trench, it is necessary to ensure that a gap is provided on all sides, the width of which is 5 cm, this will ensure the location of the rods in the internal space of the monolith.

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Features of the pour

To build a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to prepare concrete or order it. However, if you decide to prepare the solution yourself, then you should take sand, crushed stone and cement in the following proportions: 3: 5: 1. The liquid must be added so that the cement does not turn out to be too fluid, its consistency must be such that it is difficult to distribute the composition.

If you intend to fill using a machine, then before ordering it, you must make sure that there is access to the entrance from any corner of the base.

To carry out work on the construction of a strip foundation, it is preferable to order a concrete machine, because it will not work to prepare a large amount of it on your own, as a result, seams with cold bridges are formed. However, the filling should be done in layers of 20 cm, each formed layer must be rammed. To do this, you can use the method of tapping the walls of the formwork. After reaching the cable line, the surface should be leveled using a trowel.

To carry out the above work, you should prepare:

• building level;
• crushed stone;
• polyethylene;
• screws;
• cement;
• sand;
• boards;
• shovel;
• capacity.