Just incredible orchids. I have never seen anything more beautiful)) It is in this color scheme that I like them the most. Very realistic ... even more than :)

First, a few more photos of these orchids.

And here is the master class on sculpting orchids! Narration by the author.

2. I am often asked to what state it is necessary to boil the mass of HF. Therefore, I decided to start this MK with a photo of my mass.

3. I knead the mass on a table smeared with Nivea cream.

4. We get such a beautiful lump! And we begin to sculpt an orchid.

5. First, paint the HF mass in the desired color (I paint with oil paint). We make blanks for the cores of the flower. Let them dry for 2-3 hours.

6. In the file, roll out the HF layer and cut out just such a shape of the first petal (1 for each flower).

7. We make an imprint on the mold (not necessary) and peel off the edges with a sharp stack.

8. We roll the edges with a stack, making them wavy.

9. This is how we glue it to the core (the first blank). We give the necessary shape and dry for 3-4 hours.

10. Roll out and cut out the side petals (2 for each flower)

11. We make a wavy edge with a stack.

12. Glue to the left and right of the first petal. I put napkins between the petals to give shape and so that the petals do not stick to each other.

13. Similarly, we make 3 more petals for each flower, they are narrower and without a wavy edge.

14. Glue, also laying napkins between the petals.

15. We make a blank of an unblown bud and buds that will be in the leaves.

16. This is how the bud turns out.

17. Dried flowers and buds run in HF.

18. Roll out thin "strings" from unpainted HF, give them any shape and dry (these are future roots).

19. Coloring the HF in green color making leaves.

20. Glue the leaves immediately and do not dry much.

22. It looks something like this.

23. Then we take tissue paper (it is very similar to thin tracing paper, only thinner) We crush it and tear it.

24. And in a mess, glue the paper with liquid PVA glue. We dry and cut off the excess in an artistic mess.

25. Now coloring. I use ink and a pad, but watercolor paint will also work, which also needs to be applied with a sponge or sponge.

26. This time for decoration, I used a real orchid mixture and poured it into a transparent Plastic container, adding roots from HF to it for realism.

27. Here's what happened.

28. Accents on leaves and flowers were finished with oil paint.

29. And here is the result. I hope that it was not in vain that I sat up to the night downloading this MK and it will definitely come in handy for someone! All success and good luck. If you have any questions, ask, I will definitely answer.

In this master class, I will show you how I make a phalaenopsis orchid from polymer clay (cold porcelain). I do not pretend to be original, most likely there is already a similar master class somewhere, but I did not find it, but in due time it would be very useful to me. I hope it will be useful for you too.

Phalaenopsis I tried to do in different ways, I used many methods and options. But the result did not suit me. It was difficult and unrealistic. I had to cut something, glue some parts that did not want to stick together, attach wire to the stem, and so on. By trial and error, a technology for creating a flower has been developed, which does not require a huge investment of time and effort. The flower is molded quickly and pleasantly. And it mimics the real one pretty well.

1. Polymer clay (cold porcelain). I have Fleur.
2. Phalaenopsis petal mold.
3. Cutters. My husband made me from galvanized sheet. I drew sketches, with the help of metal scissors, pliers and a kind soul, he bent the patterns.
4. Stack main.
5. Stack with balls (bulks) with a diameter of 3, 8 and 6 mm.
6. The cell from under the eggs is cardboard.
7. Wire number 20.
8. Plastic corner (or pasta machine).
9. Paint oil white zinc, carmine, medium yellow.

Shall we start?

I will not give in this master class the process of creating buds, leaves and assembling a branch, there are enough of these materials on the Internet.
We are interested in the flower itself.

We paint a piece of clay with a diameter of about 9 cm with zinc white. This will whiten the finished flower and keep the petals translucent. A little bit of paint is enough for this. Literally like this:

We roll out the clay in a folder to the thickness of a petal. Cut out the middle of the flower and two parts of the petals with cutters.

We print the petals on the mold and let it dry.

With the middle we proceed as follows: roll out the edges with a stack,

we form a fold in the middle with our fingers,

with a stack of balls we give it a shape,

glue the wire, forming a pestle,

dry in a cell. It’s hard to come up with a more convenient device for drying the middle of orchids!

Meanwhile, the petals have dried up. With a stack of balls we give them a shape.

We dry.

We glue the so-called callus - a small tubercle at the base of the lower petal.

We paint the dried up middle. According to my observations, in white phalaenopsis, the centers are either yellow with raspberry splashes, or deep Pink colour with yellow spots. I haven't seen any other colors, although they probably do.

I'm not an artist, I'm just learning 🙂 So don't judge too harshly. In order to make the painting more accurate and realistic, there are special markers. I just have paint.

We paint the petals using the “dry brush” technique. Slightly touch the edges of the petals in the direction from the edge to the center with light pink paint.

Assembly. In the process of creating any flower, the assembly is the most enjoyable.

Finally, my old dream came true - to master phalaenopsis! And although there is still something to work on, but I hope that I have become much closer to the goal) While I stuck the flowers, I will arrange them in a branch later, when the weiner of the phalaenopsis leaf arrives. And as always, I share with you my humble experience in creating this flower)

for work I used: the main stack, nail scissors, a small spatula from a manicure set, super gel glue, a tinting brush. Also needed: templates or cutters of petals and phalaenopsis butterflies, pestle mold (you can do it manually, but I don’t do it very well), drying for a butterfly, white wire 24-26 sizes, petal veiners, teip tape. For tinting, I used: pastel light yellow, dark yellow, marsh. From oil - dark red and brown. And also for a slight shine of the petals, I used shadows of fine dispersion luminous white. You can use a special glitter, but I did not find one with us.

the pestle is ready from mold. While it is not completely dry, we take a white wire 12-13 cm long. We bend its part by 3 cm and paste it into the pestle in this way, leaving a tail for the future column. Let the pestle dry completely.

For anther, we take a small piece of porcelain the size of a small pea and form a pyramid with our fingers, with an extension upwards. With a spatula, make a recess in the center of the pyramid.

It turns out like this. Then, with nail scissors, we cut off the pyramids on the sides, making them even. We get such a check mark.

then with our fingers we form such small horns on the anther

we take our dried pestle on a wire. we form a thin sausage from porcelain and insert it onto the wire, having previously smeared the base of the pestle with glue. We smooth the junction with water, connecting the pestle and column into one. Then we flatten our column and tear off excess porcelain. Make sure that the column is not thick, but graceful. And at the very end of the column, make the platform as thin as possible, then the anther will be glued to it. Let her dry well.

when the column dries, we bend it in this way. It is better to look at a living flower and bend over it, at least for a start, then the skill will be worked out and you will be able to do it from memory. Glue our anther on the bottom platform of the column.

I’ll tell you a little about the antennae) I tried to pull them out of the butterfly, but for some reason they always came off) so I decided to make them separately. scrolled between her fingers, connecting the joint into one. it's not difficult, it seemed to me so much easier and more realistic antennae are obtained)

let them dry a little and twist them like an orchid. Then we put the butterfly in the dryer.

when our butterfly and the column are dry, we proceed to tinting. We mix three types of pastel in almost the same proportions (a little less marsh) and tint the anthers themselves and the edges of the butterfly in this way.

then add a little brown and thin wire to the dark red oil one, put dots on the anther and stripes on the bottom of the column, as well as stripes on the butterfly.

this is the place of drawing stripes on a butterfly. then with a thin brush with the same color we tint the edges of the butterfly, as in the photo. we connect our column with a butterfly. I glued the gel on the super glue, it does not grab so quickly and there is time to correct and set the column on the butterfly correctly.

I cut out the petals according to paper templates taken from living petals (my hands do not reach to make cutters). I cut it out, thinned the edge and textured it on the weiner.

I planted each petal on a wire, for this I made a little thicker at the base of the petals. And on large petals I masked it in a characteristic fold.

when our petals are completely dry, we collect a flower. Before that, we wrap our wires in this way and first connect the middle petals with a butterfly, then the top petal, then the bottom ones. I connected the teip with tape. Then, when we achieved correct form flower, we can drop super glue behind the pestle onto the joints of our wires, finally fixing the shape. But first, make sure everything looks nice and there are no distortions.

like this approximately) it is very important to set the petals correctly. again, it's best to do this while looking at a living flower.

Orchid. Cold porcelain

In this master class you will learn how to make an orchid from cold porcelain. There are quite a few types of orchids and, accordingly, there are also many ways to sculpt them. Our version is a typical white orchid - phalaenopsis, which consists of: upper sepal, lateral petals, column (center of the flower), lips (lower petal, we have it red), lateral sepals (at the bottom of the flower). In one of our past we showed how to make .

Cold porcelain orchid. Materials and tools

For work you need:

• sharp scissors;
• rolling pin;
• toothpicks;
• tassel;
• wire;

And, of course, you need porcelain, gouache and PVA glue. In this master class, we use the classic .

Cold porcelain. Master Class. Orchid

To begin with, we paint cold porcelain in green, yellow and red. The ratio of material and paint is shown below. We knead to a uniform mass. If you are satisfied with the resulting color, then we get to work. If not, add a little more paint and again knead it into cold porcelain. We achieve the desired color on the rise.

These are the colors you get:

To prevent cold porcelain from sticking, we treat all tools, hands and the work surface with cream.
Now we roll out the layer white color. We draw side petals on it and cut them out with scissors. We thread the pieces of wire into the petals, as in the photo.

Gently give the edges the desired shape and make them thinner (roll them out).

Now there is a huge variety of forms and prints for the manufacture of certain colors. If you have them - great, use them. I draw and cut out all the parts.
Next, we make the upper and side sepals. Just like petals: draw, cut, adjust. The top one is slightly larger than the rest.

The next step is to make a lip (lower petal). It takes a little diligence and patience. On a layer of red porcelain, we draw just such a "butterfly" and cut it out.

We bend it and leave to dry. So that the petal does not unbend, I built just such a design (treat the paper with cream).

We make the column as in the photo, first dip the tip of the wire into the glue.

For the lip, you will still need such a grain, which we will then glue with the help of PVA.

Orchid leaves are quite large and veined. We cut them out of a layer of cold green porcelain, pierce them with wire and leave to dry.

When all the elements have dried up (it takes about a day), you can form a flower. We will need a base wire (thicker than the one we used for the petals). We attach the petals to it (we wind the tip of the wire on the petal onto the base) - we start from the sepals and end with a column.

We make buds - two large white and one green - a little smaller.

We fasten the leaves and cover the stem with green porcelain.

Here it is finished sculpting orchids from cold porcelain. The most interesting thing left is to color the flower so that it looks more natural. We mix yellow and green gouache. The color should be light green.

We color the middle of the flower and the buds (leave the top of the bud white). Remember that the transitions from one color to another should not be clear. We put black dots on the lower petal.

An orchid made of cold porcelain can be "planted" in a flower pot, put on a windowsill and delight passers-by)).

Orchid Phalaenopsis from cold porcelain

And what cold porcelain orchid did you get?)))

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